on a Crowded Runway

Without question, we can count on Miuccia Prada, Raf Simons at Jil Sander, Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi and, at times, Tomas Maier of Bottega Veneta to say something with fashion, and not just offer approachable clothes (though these designers do that, too). But there should be many more designers in Milan with that driving ambition. Otherwise, the future of fashion will be in jeopardy.

The Gucci show presented by Frida Giannini was a perfect example of this point. In its conservative styling and lackluster Art Deco motifs interspersed with animal prints and equestrian tassels, the collection seemed to stoutly reject creative leadership. Ms. Giannini offered waiter-type jackets with gold trim and chain latches, worn with pedestrian pleated pants, and low-waist dresses in emerald green and cream with more gold and a loop of fabric in the back. The finale of gold flapper dresses didn’t reveal anything new about that style.